Fourth to tenth September, 2005 (France and Belgium)
September 10th, 2005 | Posted by in TravelNot much commentary to add here, except to say that Ghent remains one of my favourite cities in Europe. I always tell people off for trying to go to Bruges. I just don’t understand why they would.
Tut, the longer I stay offline, the harder these things become to write.
So, I’m now in Belgium. Since last we communed, I have regained control of most of my essential bodily functions, which is a bonus. I have also spent a few days in Belleville, which is a pretty scuddy part of Paris, three days in Brussels and am now in Ghent, a small-ish Belgian city between Antwerp and Bruges.
To wrap up Paris: I kinda get it, now. To get the most from Paris you have to basically not be a tourist – avoid the gaudier sights, look down your nose at the Americans and just sit outside the cafes or in the parks watching the world go by. Yeah, it’s nice for a day or too. I don’t think I’ll bother going back, though.
The main reason for that is Brussels, which totally won me over. The pace of life in Brussels is insane – tiny, cramped streets all hella teeming with people – but the city is undeniably stunningly beautiful. The one thing it lacks (oddly, for a European city) is a central river. This may seem like an odd thing to notice, but a river does a lot for the psychology of a city – it tends to give the throngs a place to sit and repose, and Brussels really lacks that. It doesn’t have much by the way of parks, either. All in all, not a terribly relaxing place, but a much younger city than Paris, and – in my opinion – a city with far more personality and energy.
I’ve been in Ghent for a few hours and so far I love it. It’s a lot quieter than Brussels, and equally well endowed in the cobbled-street-and-gothic-cathedral department. It also has possibly the best youth hostel in Belgium (the three main ones in Brussels all suck), and a lot of cheap eateries. The one major problem with travelling on a budget is that foodies, such as myself, can rarely indulge; happily Ghent accomodates us, with a number of very hip, very cheap and very good cafe-bar-restaurant-dives.
Belgium is my kind of place, it must be said. Its cities are stunning, its food phenomenal and its people friendly. As I’m still in the Flemish north, and my Dutch is slightly rusty, the locals have been largely patient with me, which I’m certainly grateful for.
So, I’ve got another day in Ghent, then I’m taking a day trip to Antwerp before heading south to Leige French Belgium. I’ll spend a couple of days exploring the Andennes before crossing into Luxembourg for a day or two, and thence into Germany.
Hope you’re all well; as usual, feel free to drop me an email with any news!
Much love to all.
PS, On a different note, I have already finished Q by Luther Blissett, The Accidental by Ali Smith and The Rebel by Camus. I’ve only been gone just over a week! I only have two books left! Help!
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